Newport, KY – There is nothing new under the sun.¹ Or is there? The folks at New Riff say there is.
So what makes them different? After all, they talk at length about adhering to strict Kentucky sour mash traditions and Bottled in-Bond Without Chill Filtration quality standards.”
Well, for starters, they’re outsiders. They don’t come from bourbon families and backgrounds. Even head distiller Brian Sprance comes from the beer industry. They’re also independently owned, by one family.
It’s that independence that fuels their innovation and frees them from the “you can’t do that” or “we’ve tried that before, and it didn’t work” way of thinking.
Maybe the most significant thing that sets them apart is their commitment to keeping the Bottled-in-Bond tradition alive. Many (most) large distilleries have all but abandoned the practice, and craft distilleries usually don’t have the patience to wait four years to sell their spirits – an unnecessary expense, they say. But not New Riff. It’s all part of their spirit of transparency. You know what you’re getting, every step of the way, and I like that.
The Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 requires that bourbon be aged for at least four years, bottled at 100 proof, made by one distiller, at one distillery, in one distillation season, and aged in a federally bonded warehouse. The act was necessary because unscrupulous wholesalers “fortified” whiskey with additives including neutral-grain spirits, prune juice, tobacco spittoon juice, and even turpentine. The goal was to give the whiskey the appearance of aging and stretch the number of bottles per barrel.
New Riff’s mission is to “someday be counted among the world’s great small distilleries.” I’d say they’re well on their way.
Located on the Ohio River’s Kentucky side, just across from downtown Cincinnati, it’s an easy place to get to, with plenty of parking just outside the entrance. It’s an especially good distillery to visit for those with limited mobility.
And although they are right on the river, they quickly point out they don’t use that water. Of course, having access to the right water supply is essential in making fine bourbon. New Riff has the incredibly good fortune to be located on top of an ancient aquifer. Their private well, drilled to 100’ below the parking lot, delivers water high in minerals at a consistent 58⁰ F – great for distilling whiskey. By the way, the reason for the good fortune is that they didn’t know about the aquifer when they decided to build the distillery on its current location.
To learn more about the importance of water in the distillation process, follow this link from Whisky Science. It’s an older article, but not much has changed in the science of fermentation. If you’re sciency, you’ll like it.
Whiskey vs. Whisky – That’s not a typo in the line above. Both spellings of the word are correct. Typically, “whisky” is made in Canada, Japan, and Scotland, and “whiskey” is made in Ireland and the United States, although some American brands, such as Maker’s Mark, use the more traditional “whisky.” So that clears that up!
The Tour
Grover Arnold, our tour guide (we hadn’t met before, but we think we might be cousins), takes great pride and passion in representing New Riff, how they make bourbon and other spirits, their approach to the marketplace, and the world-class products they produce. The tour is lively, informative, and surprisingly transparent. A guide can make or break a distillery experience, and Grover does not disappoint.
The tour ends with a tasting and discussion of New Riff’s bourbons, rye whiskey, and gin. Audience participation is encouraged. The tasting area is on the top floor of the distillery, with striking views of the city. It’s very much an urban vibe.
Looking for Something to Eat Along the Way?
I stopped at the Cock & Bull Public House for lunch. It’s in the Mainstrasse District in Covington, KY, just a mile or so east of New Riff. Yes, it’s a chain, but a small one, with a near-perfect location, traditional English food, a wide selection of craft beer, and a variety of bourbons. If you look closely at the photo of staff members Christine and Angel, you’ll notice a bottle of Blanton’s in the background.
There are many restaurants and bars in the Mainstrasse District if the Cock & Bull Public House isn’t quite what you have in mind. Parking can be a bit of a challenge, but it’s well worth the effort.
Six Reasons New Riff Should be on Your Bourbon Tour Itinerary
- New Riff delivers on its promise of a “new riff on an old tradition.”
- The tour and guide are top-tier.
- You might learn something new. I did.
- It’s super-easy to access, with ample parking and close to lots of restaurants and bars.
- The tasting experience is worth way more than the price of admission.
- The bottle will look great in your liquor cabinet, and your tour receipt gets you $10 off your purchase at the gift shop.
I’m not often surprised by distillery tours, but I am a little by this one, and I highly recommend it. To book your tour, visit their website at https://newriffdistilling.com/.
¹The Bible (NIV), Ecclesiastes, 1:9
